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PurelyDiamonds > Buying Guide/Info

Buying Guide/Info

Every diamond is unique. To calculate its value, experts refer to what they call the Four Cs--Colour, Clarity, Cut and Carat. All of these factors will influence the eventual value of the diamond.

• The Colour

• The Clarity

• The Cut

• The Carat

The Colour

Colour Grades used by Purely Diamonds –

A diamond can divide light in to a spectrum of colours (like a prism). Colour in a diamond acts like a filter and diminishes the spectrum of colours emitted. The less colour in the diamond, the better the colour grade.

The scale for grading ranges from D which is totally colourless, to Z which is a pale yellow or brown colour. Diamonds that are ‘colourless’ (graded D, E or F) are very rare and demand premium prices. The untrained eye will find it very difficult to distinguish between D, E or F grades.

G, H, I and J are ‘near colourless’ and represent excellent value for money. G and H are sometimes called ‘rare white’ and are the most sought after in the ‘near colourless’ group.

The majority of diamonds we use are colour 'G' or above. As you can see, colour G is the 4th highest colour and top of the ‘near colourless’ group. This grade represents great value for money, as ‘colourless’ stones can be very expensive (less than 2% of all diamonds are graded as colour D).

The Clarity


This tells us whether a diamond is flawless—i.e. without any imperfections—or whether there are what the experts call inclusions, small imperfections which are often not visible to the naked eye. In effect, clarity is a measure of the diamond's purity. The majority of diamonds we use are clarity ‘SI1’ or above, which means these natural imperfections are completely invisible to the naked eye. You won’t see any marks in your diamond at all.

IF to VS can be described as luxury grades. Inclusions are difficult to see when using a 10x magnification in good light, and are not visible with the naked eye. Any diamond graded between IF and VS should be sparkly and bright, and within these grades diamonds suffer no noticeable loss of brilliance through reduced clarity.

SI1 and SI2 grades represent excellent value for money. The small inclusions are fairly easy to see under 10x magnification, and there may be some barely noticeable lack of brilliance in comparison. However, you cannot see these small inclusions with the naked eye. Any diamond in these grades will also be bright and sparkly. Untrained individuals will not see the difference between a VS and an SI graded diamond, either in terms of inclusions or brilliance, without using magnification.

P1 Diamonds which fall into the Piqué bracket (P1), by definition have inclusions which can be visible to the naked eye. However, in P1 stones the inclusions should be difficult to see, or very minor, and Purely Diamonds only use P1 stones with inclusions that are not visible to the naked eye. We select the best P1 diamonds so that although they do fall in to the Piqué bracket, you won’t see any marks in your diamond with the naked eye.

GIA	UK	Description	Clarity
IF VVS1 VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 SI2 I1 I2 I3	Loupe Clean VVS1 VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 SI2 I1 - Piqué1 I2 - Piqué2 I3 - Piqué3	Internally Flawless Very Very Small Inclusions Very Very Small Inclusions Very Small Inclusions Very Small Inclusions Small Inclusions Small Inclusions First Piqué Second Piqué Third Piqué Spotted Heavily Spotted Rejection	Internally Flawless No Visible Inclusions No Visible Inclusions No Visible Inclusions No Visible Inclusions No Visible Inclusions No Visible Inclusions Barely Visible Inclusions Easily Visible Inclusions Very Easily Visible Inclusions Heavily Included Very Heavily Included Near Gem

The Cut

When diamonds come from the earth, they look nothing like the polished and cut gems you expect to see in fine jewellery. A lot of work goes in to turning these rough diamonds into perfect works of fiery brilliance. Cut and Shape are often confused - Shape refers to the outward appearance of the diamond (such as round, emerald, princess etc). Cut refers to the reflective qualities of the diamond.

• Cut

When a diamond is well-cut, light enters through the table of the diamond, travels to the pavilion and reflects from one side to the other before reflecting back out of the diamond through the table. This light creates a flashing effect that we know as brilliance/sparkle.

Cut is described with the following grades -

• Ideal, Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair, and Poor.

Some diamond certificates do not specifically state the ‘Cut’ grade of the diamond. As we use a variety of independent certificates (AnchorCert, GIA, IGI and HRD) we cannot guarantee that the cut grade will appear on your certificate. It bears no reflection on the quality of the stone you have purchased if your certificate does not state the grade, as your diamond will always be ‘Good’ or better (the majority being Very Good and Excellent, some Ideal). It requires a trained eye to judge the quality of a diamond cut, and our in-house diamond graders are highly qualified professionals who only select diamonds that they grade as ‘Good’ or better, nearly always selecting ‘Very Good’ or ‘Excellent’. Your diamond will be well-cut, bright and sparkly, we guarantee it!

• Shape



The Carat



The carat is a measurement of weight, not size. Diamonds are actually valued in terms of their weight, not in terms of their size. The actual size of a diamond can be described in millimetres, please refer to this diamond size chart for conversion between carat weight and millimetres.

Note – do not confuse 'carat weight' with 'carat/karat' which is the method of determing the purity of gold (e.g 18ct white gold, 18ct yellow gold).

One carat is divided into 100 points – a diamond that is ½ a carat is also 50 points. Carat weight affects the price of a diamond more than any other of the 4 C's. A diamond that is twice the size of another, can be as much as 4 times the price. Larger diamonds are discovered less often than smaller diamonds, which means large diamonds are rare and have greater value. For this reason, the price of a diamond rises exponentionally to its size.

When deciding what size diamond to buy, there are a few things to consider:

•	Your budget – some people suggest 1 - 2 months salary, others whatever you can comfortably afford. There are no strict rules, and it really does come down to what you are comfortable with.
•	Size vs Quality – if your partner prefers larger items of jewellery, and you are working with a budget, you can purchase a larger diamond which is graded slightly lower in terms of clarity and colour. For example, a 0.50ct D VVS1 (luxury grade) will be more expensive than a 0.70ct G SI1 (excellent value grade), even though it is smaller. Opt for the 0.70ct if you think your partner would prefer size over colour and clarity.
•	Finger size – slender fingers make smaller diamonds appear larger. A 1-carat diamond will seem proportionately large if worn by someone with very slim fingers.

The setting of a ring, or any piece of jewellery, is an integral part of its overall design. Whether you are looking for a diamond solitaire, a three-stone ‘Trilogy’ ring or an eternity ring with a number of stones, the way in which the stones are held/set is a significant factor in determining its shape and style.

Claw Setting

This is the most popular of all settings because of the way it enables the maximum amount of light to enter the diamond from all angles, making it appear larger and more brilliant. This is because this setting is composed of very small metal prongs/claws that cradle the diamond so more of the stone is visible. Claw setting is the most popular setting for solitaire diamond rings (typically engagement rings) and the stones are usually easier to clean.



Channel Setting

This setting is mostly used for eternity and wedding rings as the diamonds flow in a continuous stream and can also enhance a central stone. The diamonds are set right next to each other in a metal channel - no metal separates the diamonds so they form a continuous row of stones. The outer ridge of metal is worked over the edges of the diamonds, protecting the stones and providing a smooth outer surface.



Rub-Over/Bezel Setting

A rub-over/bezel setting uses a metal rim/collar that completely surrounds the diamond. This setting protects the edges of the diamond and holds it securely, ideal for those with active lifestyles. When a stone is rub-over set, the metal is pushed/rubbed slightly over the edges of the stone. With a plain bezel set the metal simply encases the stone as opposed to being rubbed over the edges. Both bezel and rub-over set diamonds have a very clean, minimal look.



Invisible Setting

The invisible setting enables you to have what appears to be a large diamond but at a more affordable price, as it is actually made up of a group of smaller diamonds. The stones sit side-by-side, creating a solid surface of diamonds with no metal in between them at all. This technique works by interlocking the diamonds together into a metal framework, using the grooves in each stone’s girdle, thereby creating the impression of one large stone.



Bar Setting

This setting is quite similar to channel setting, except bar setting uses metal plates in between the diamonds that rise to the top of each stone and are therefore visible. Whereas channel setting uses what could be seen as a horizontal metal channel with a row of stones in the centre, bar setting separates each stone vertically with a metal bar. This setting can also be used to hold just one diamond, with a bar placed on two sides of the stone at right angles to the shank/band.



Pave Setting

The word ‘pave’ comes from the word paved. Pave setting uses lots of small diamonds placed very close together, to create an effect similar to a street paved with cobblestones. Each diamond is placed into a small hole that has been drilled into the shank/band. Tiny bits of metal from the surface of the shank are rubbed over the edges of the stones, forming tiny beads which hold the diamonds in place. Pave is one of the more difficult settings to accomplish and requires a highly skilled and very patient craftsman.



Grain Setting

Grain setting is similar to Pavé setting, but the difference is that in grain setting the stones are not ‘paved’ on the surface of the metal. The stones are set in a single file, one next to the other.



Tension Setting

This setting uses the pressure of the shank/band’s metal to hold the stone firmly in place, between two open ends of the metal mounting. The metal grips the diamond by the girdle on each side and we use a bezel for added protection to tightly hold the stone. This technique suspends the stone in the shank and is a popular, modern choice of setting.

There are various shapes a diamond can be – round, emerald, princess and radiant to name a few. Shaping a diamond from a rough stone can take an hour or a year depending on the size and quality of the stone. Smaller stones are more difficult to shape and cutters must have patience and great skill to make the delicate cuts that are necessary to give a diamond the greatest possible sparkle and brilliance.

• Round Brilliant Cut

• Princess (Square) Cut

• Emerald Cut

• Radiant Cut

• Marquise Cut

• Pear Shape

• Asscher Cut

• Baguette/Tapered Baguette

Round Brilliant Cut Diamond



This shape accounts for over 75% of all diamonds sold today. Round is the most popular shape used for an engagement ring, and of these the round brilliant cut is the most commonly chosen. It’s 58 facet-cut achieves the maximum brilliance a diamond can have, maximising the reflection and refraction of light. Diamonds cut in this way have more depth than width, and can therefore seem smaller than other finely cut diamonds, but they are the most brilliant of all shapes.




Princess (Square) Cut Diamond



This is one of the most popular fancy-shaped diamonds and is popular for engagement rings. The princess cut, invented around 30 years ago, is the most important new shape/cut since the perfection of the modern brilliant cut over 60 years ago. The princess cut is essentially a square version of the round brilliant cut, known technically as a square modified brilliant cut. It is a style of cutting that improves the faceting of square/rectangular stones to obtain maximum brilliance from the diamond, as well as making any inclusions/flaws in the stone less visible.




Emerald Cut Diamond



This shape was originally developed for cutting emeralds, until it was discovered it was suitable for other stones. An emerald cut diamond can be extremely stunning. It may not have the sparkle of a round brilliant cut, but because of its long lines it tends to produce more dramatic flashes of light. It is more scintillating than brilliant, and highlights the clarity of the diamond. The emerald cut shape is rectangular with cut corners, and is one of the most elegant and sophisticated diamond shapes. Emerald cut diamonds are less expensive than round brilliant or princess shapes.




Radiant Cut Diamond



This shape is a cross between a princess and an emerald cut. It combines the best features of the round brilliant cut, the elegance and trimmed corners of an emerald cut and a squarer shape more similar to the princess cut. Radiants are similar to emerald cut stones in their shape, but the faceting is different making the diamond more brilliant. This cut has 70 facets to maximise the brilliance of the diamond.



Marquise Cut Diamond



This shape was commissioned by Louis XIV in France, and was based on the smile of the Marquise de Pompadour. It is a variation of the round brilliant cut - elongated with pointed ends. A marquise diamond is beautiful when used as a solitaire or when enhanced by smaller diamonds. This shape can maximise carat-weight, making the diamond appear much larger, and tends to make your fingers appear long and slender.




Pear Shape Diamond



Pear shaped diamonds are often called ‘teardrop’ diamonds because of their shape. This shape is a combination of the round brilliant and the marquise, a fiery cut with elegant lines and lots of sparkle. Whilst not a traditional selection, pear shaped diamonds make beautiful engagement rings either as a solitaire (single stone) or as shoulder stones either side of a central stone.



Asscher Cut Diamond



The asscher cut was developed by the Asscher Brothers in Holland in the early twentieth century, and is gaining popularity again today. It is often referred to as the ‘square emerald cut’ - because it is square with wide step facets and cropped corners. This cut is designed to draw your eye into the stone, and whilst not a traditional selection, asscher cut diamonds are now very fashionable for engagement rings.




Baguette/Tapered Baguette Diamond



Baguette cut diamonds are oblong/rectangular, and are similar to emerald cuts but without the cut corners (which make emerald cuts octagonal rather than oblong). Rectangular shaped stones are usually cut in steps, and are therefore known as step cut. The earliest jewellers used this simple cut for many gemstones including diamonds because it was relatively easy to cut with the limited tools available years ago. Baguettes make good stones for eternity rings as well as in channel settings, as unlike round stones, they can be set without leaving any gaps between the diamonds. Tapered baguettes are frequently used as shoulder stones to enhance a central stone of another shape.

• Platinum is naturally white, whereas white gold has to be rhodium plated to make it whiter (white gold is naturally a light grey/yellowish colour)
• Platinum is approximately 40% heavier than gold
• Platinum is 30 times rarer than gold, so its price is invariably that much higher (platinum is currently approximately 30% more expensive than gold)
• Platinum is generally 95% pure platinum, compared with gold which is 75% pure gold.
• Platinum is harder wearing than gold due to its density and weight. It does scratch like all other precious metals, but a scratch is merely a displacement of metal and none of its volume is lost.
• If white gold has been rhodium plated, the colour difference between white gold and platinum is not noticeable. The two will look almost identical when new, however the rhodium plating will wear over time.

White gold

All our white gold is 18 carat. It is made by mixing 75% pure gold with 25% alloy metals including silver and palladium.

There is actually no such thing as ‘white gold’; all gold is yellow until it has been mixed with other alloys. White gold as it is, is actually a light gray/yellowish color so it is coated in rhodium to make it appear whiter. It is common practice to rhodium plate all white gold jewellery. Traditionally nickel was used in white gold but nickel is no longer used today as it can cause skin reactions. We do not use nickel in any of our jewellery.

Rhodium is very similar to platinum and shares many of the same properties, including its colour. It’s a very white metal and is hard wearing, although it will wear away after a long period of time. There is no answer as to how long the rhodium plating should last, it all depends on the thickness of the plating, the conditions under which it was applied and the general day to day wear of the item.

Rhodium plating should be very cost effective (we provide this service for £10) and will return your jewellery to its original condition. We suggest having your white gold jewellery rhodium plated every few years or so to keep it looking white.

Yellow gold

All our yellow gold is 18 carat. It is made by mixing 75% pure gold with 25% alloy metals including copper and zinc.

Unlike white gold which needs to be rhodium plated to look white, yellow gold does not require plating as it is naturally yellow. Yellow gold is hard wearing and will maintain its yellow colour, but it always looks best once it has been polished.

Platinum

All our platinum is almost pure (950 Platinum). It is made by mixing 95% platinum with 5% other alloy metals.

Platinum is the finest precious metal used in jewellery making. There is very little platinum on this earth and it’s found in very few places around the world. The rarity of platinum means that its price is invariably higher than gold. Currently platinum is approximately 30% more expensive than gold.

Platinum naturally has a brilliant white sheen and does not need to be rhodium plated like white gold to achieve its colour. The purity level in platinum is that much higher than gold (95% compared with 75%), making it hypoallergenic and kind to sensitive skin. It is very hard wearing and very dense, making it heavier than gold and more durable than other jewellery metals. It does scratch like all other precious metals, but a scratch is merely a displacement of metal and none of its volume is lost.

Over time platinum does develop a natural patina which many people find just as attractive as a polished finish. However, a professional polish will restore the jewellery to its original highly polished condition if you so prefer.

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• Court

• Flat Court

• Concave

• Diamond Set

Wedding rings symbolise commitment and eternal love. The never-ending circle is a symbol of unity and eternity. Years ago it was decided to place the wedding ring on the third finger of the left hand, which ancient Egyptians believed had a vein leading directly to the heart. Romans called this vein the 'vein-amoris', meaning 'vein of love'.

When choosing a wedding ring, comfort and fit are the most crucial things to take into consideration as you will be wearing it everyday. Appearance is obviously important too - choosing a fairly simple and classic wedding ring is a safe bet, however you could always choose something unusual to make it unique.

It is important to consider the width of your engagement ring when choosing your wedding ring. Whilst it is perfectly acceptable to have rings of different widths, or even a different shape, most women tend to prefer a wedding ring of similar width/shape to their engagement ring. However it is just a matter of personal preference and there are no strict rules to follow.

At Purely Diamonds you have a choice of traditional Court wedding rings, Flat Court wedding rings, Concave wedding rings and Diamond Set wedding rings available in a variety of widths and finger sizes.

Most of our wedding rings are available in a variety of different widths. They vary between 2.5mm – 6.5mm. If you see a particular design you like but would like it in a different width, please contact us to discuss your requirements.

If you are unsure of your ring/finger size, we can send you a free ring-sizer in the post, as it is important to make sure your wedding ring fits!


Wedding Ring Styles

The Court wedding ring is the most classic of them all. It is a simple circular band, rounded inside (also known as comfort-fit) and rounded outside. Available in Platinum and 18ct gold (white, yellow and rose), plain or diamond-set.



The Flat wedding ring sits closest to the finger, as it is both flat on the inside and on the outside. Our flat wedding rings are actually Flat Court, which means they are slightly courted inside (comfort-fit). Available in Platinum and 18ct gold (white, yellow and rose), plain or diamond-set.



The Concave wedding ring is a dished circular wedding ring, slightly indented in the centre (rounded inside (comfort-fit) but with a concave exterior). Available in Platinum and 18ct gold (white, yellow and rose).



A Diamond Set wedding ring can be either Court, Flat Top or Concave, set with diamonds of your choice. Available in Platinum and 18ct gold (white, yellow and rose), with either princess cut, round brilliant cut or baguette cut diamonds.

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Every stone weighing at least 0.25ct (SI quality or better), or at least 0.30ct (H P1 quality), is independently certified by one of 5 certification companies (AnchorCert, IGS, GIA, HRD or IGI).

You can see whether your item is certified by looking at your chosen product details under 'Certifications', where you will also see a logo for a Valuation Document.
A diamond certificate means that all elements of the diamond you purchased have been examined and rigorously tested. Your certification report is recognised proof of "The Four Cs"--Cut, Clarity, Colour and Carat weight-- of your diamond/s. (For more information on "The Four Cs" click here.) Your report will most likely be from AnchorCert, IGS or GIA. AnchorCert are a British company (part of the Birmingham Assay Office), IGS (International Gemmological Society) are a British company, and GIA are an American company. All are independent bodies which test, grade and certify your diamond through their specialist examination processes. We also use IGI and HRD certificates for some items.

AnchorCert Certification

The largest diamond certification service in the UK —a department of The Birmingham Assay Office (founded by an act of parliament in 1773), the largest UK Assay Office. Confirmation of the carat weight, colour, clarity and cut of your selected diamond. A team of highly qualified gemologists gives you expert opinion from qualified professionals. Laser inscription of Report Number on the girdle of diamonds weighing 0.50ct or more. High quality reports including a digital image of the diamond/s.

GIA Diamond Certification

• GIA have graded diamonds such as the famous Hope Diamond and the De Beers Millennium Star.

• Created the famous 4 Cs of diamond value (clarity, cut, colour and carat weight)

• Corporate Birthplace of the International Diamond Grading System, used by jewellery professionals around the world.

• Laser inscription of the Certificate number onto the diamond.
  

As with any major purchase in life, it makes sense to insure your jewellery.


Every item we sell comes with a free valuation document. This will confirm the carat weight, cut, colour and clarity of your chosen diamond/s, as well as a picture and description of the item. Our valuations are carried out by an experienced FGA (Fellow of the Gemmological Association) and GG (Graduate Gemologist) certified diamond grader, so this document not only gives you an accurate valuation of your chosen piece, but it is confirmation of the quality of the diamond/s you have purchased from us.



Some of our valuations are carried out by SafeGuard, the UK's leading independent valuation service. SafeGuard´s expert valuers carefully examine the item using the latest equipment to arrive at an informed opinion. The written valuation also includes digital photographs of the item along with a full and accurate description.



Insurance claims involving items with an up-to-date valuation containing an accurate description, are likely to result in a quicker and more satisfactory outcome for you. So as a customer of Purely Diamonds you have peace of mind at no extra cost.

Money-back guarantee

We offer a 30 day money-back guarantee for refund/exchange on all items.

For more information please see our Returns Policy.

It is vital that if you do decide to return your chosen item, you must follow the instructions detailed in our Returns Policy.

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All items are entitled to our 30 day money-back guarantee. You may return an item to us within 30 days from receipt of your item, for a refund or exchange.

When returning an item to us it needs to be in its original, unused, unworn condition accompanied by all certification documents (valuation and diamond report if applicable) and its box or packaging. Items damaged due to client negligence will not be accepted for a refund.

We will gladly re-size any item at any time after your purchase, for a small charge to cover costs. Please email us at sales@purelydiamonds.co.uk before returning your item for re-sizing and state the desired size required and the product code for the ring (or your name so we can view your order details), to make sure we can do this for you. Generally resizing takes 3-5 working days, however some items can only be made within specific size ranges, and others can be specially made but this will take longer to return to you.

Items that have been received and then sent back to be re-sized, will not be accepted for a refund.

All items must be returned via Royal Mail Special Delivery which ensures there is proof of delivery. Please insure the item for a maximum value, which currently is £2,500. DO NOT write Purely Diamonds on a package when returning it to us. Instead, please write PD Ltd. This will help to prevent the possibility of theft in transit.

If the item you received was a special order for a non-standard ring size (outside of our offered range on each product) you will only be able to return it to us if it is faulty, as it will have been specially made and cannot be resold. Our standard sizes for women are 'H to Q 1/2' or 'H to S 1/2' depending on the product. Our standard sizes include half sizes.

Please email us to let us know your reason for returning the item to us, and then send the item to this address:-

PD Ltd
2nd Floor
117 Farringdon Road
London
EC1R 3BX

Once an item has been received and checked over we will process your refund immediately, however the payment may take a few days to return to your account.

If you have any enquiries regarding our returns policy, please email us at sales@purelydiamonds.co.uk

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Diamonds, unfortunately, are at the heart of armed conflict in several countries. In Sierra Leone, Angola and the Democratic Republic of Congo, for example, diamond production has been used to fund civil wars as well as human rights abuse on an enormous scale, with millions of innocent victims being forced out of their homes, raped or tortured.

For this reason, Purely Diamonds only deals in “clean diamonds” -- diamonds coming directly from legitimate, diamond-producing industries such as those in South Africa and Botswana.

However, not every diamond website is as conscientious as we are. Buying your diamonds from us means you can be sure that your conscience is clean.

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A hallmark means that the item has been independently tested (assayed) by an Assay office and guarantees that it conforms to a specified legal standard of purity. Unless specifically exempted, all gold, silver and platinum items offered for sale must be Hallmarked.

The modern Hallmarking system started in London in the 1300’s to protect the public against fraud and unscrupulous sellers. Traditionally hallmarks are struck into items made up of precious metal (platinum, gold or silver) using a steel punch. There is a new method of Laser marking which is becoming increasingly popular. Laser marking works by using high powered lasers to evaporate material from the metals surface, and means that finished items of jewellery do not need to be re-finished after the hallmarking has taken place.

The United Kingdom has statutory independent hallmarking and belongs to the Vienna Convention group (as of 2007) which recognizes other Countries hallmarks. In some nations, such as the UK, the hallmark is made up of several different elements, however, in other nations, such as Switzerland, the hallmark is a single mark regardless of metal or purity/fineness.

Hallmark symbols in the UK consist of three compulsory marks :

1. Who made the piece of jewellery (the maker’s mark).
2. The guaranteed standard of fineness or purity.
3. The Assay Office that marked and tested the item.

Metal & Fineness/Purity Mark

Silver	Gold	Platinum
800 925 958 999	375 585 750 916 990 999	850 900 950 999

Please note our gold and platinum are 750 and 950 respectively.

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