Settings
The setting of a ring, or any piece of jewellery, is an integral part of its overall design. Whether you are looking for a diamond solitaire, a three-stone ‘Trilogy’ ring or an eternity ring with a number of stones, the way in which the stones are held/set is a significant factor in determining its shape and style.
Claw Setting
This is the most popular of all settings because of the way it enables the maximum amount of light to enter the diamond from all angles, making it appear larger and more brilliant. This is because this setting is composed of very small metal prongs/claws that cradle the diamond so more of the stone is visible. Claw setting is the most popular setting for solitaire diamond rings (typically engagement rings) and the stones are usually easier to clean.
Channel Setting
This setting is mostly used for eternity and wedding rings as the diamonds flow in a continuous stream and can also enhance a central stone. The diamonds are set right next to each other in a metal channel - no metal separates the diamonds so they form a continuous row of stones. The outer ridge of metal is worked over the edges of the diamonds, protecting the stones and providing a smooth outer surface.
Rub-Over/Bezel Setting
A rub-over/bezel setting uses a metal rim/collar that completely surrounds the diamond. This setting protects the edges of the diamond and holds it securely, ideal for those with active lifestyles. When a stone is rub-over set, the metal is pushed/rubbed slightly over the edges of the stone. With a plain bezel set the metal simply encases the stone as opposed to being rubbed over the edges. Both bezel and rub-over set diamonds have a very clean, minimal look.
Invisible Setting
The invisible setting enables you to have what appears to be a large diamond but at a more affordable price, as it is actually made up of a group of smaller diamonds. The stones sit side-by-side, creating a solid surface of diamonds with no metal in between them at all. This technique works by interlocking the diamonds together into a metal framework, using the grooves in each stone’s girdle, thereby creating the impression of one large stone.
Bar Setting
This setting is quite similar to channel setting, except bar setting uses metal plates in between the diamonds that rise to the top of each stone and are therefore visible. Whereas channel setting uses what could be seen as a horizontal metal channel with a row of stones in the centre, bar setting separates each stone vertically with a metal bar. This setting can also be used to hold just one diamond, with a bar placed on two sides of the stone at right angles to the shank/band.
Pave Setting
The word ‘pave’ comes from the word paved. Pave setting uses lots of small diamonds placed very close together, to create an effect similar to a street paved with cobblestones. Each diamond is placed into a small hole that has been drilled into the shank/band. Tiny bits of metal from the surface of the shank are rubbed over the edges of the stones, forming tiny beads which hold the diamonds in place. Pave is one of the more difficult settings to accomplish and requires a highly skilled and very patient craftsman.
Grain Setting
Grain setting is similar to Pavé setting, but the difference is that in grain setting the stones are not ‘paved’ on the surface of the metal. The stones are set in a single file, one next to the other.
Tension Setting
This setting uses the pressure of the shank/band’s metal to hold the stone firmly in place, between two open ends of the metal mounting. The metal grips the diamond by the girdle on each side and we use a bezel for added protection to tightly hold the stone. This technique suspends the stone in the shank and is a popular, modern choice of setting.
